Both make armor that survives a con floor. Pick by shape and budget: big flat plates and pauldrons are EVA country, cheap, fast, cut with a knife. Fiddly curves, filigree trim and pieces with lots of surface detail are Worbla country, it welds to itself with heat alone. Most full builds use both. The app's bench-gear list carries the kit for whichever you pick.
The catch: raw EVA is foam, not armor. Paint bites straight in unless you seal it. Plasti Dip or a glue-based gesso pass comes first. Seams show unless beveled; the bevel-and-burnish is the craft.
The catch: cost per sheet is real, the honeycomb backside prints texture into every surface (unless you buy the smooth variants), and the heat-burn risk on fingers is higher, gloves and ventilation, same as foam.
The pro trick is Worbla + foam: a foam core glued up, wrapped hot in the thermoplastic so the shape locks and the surface becomes paintable-shell smooth. The foam keeps it light and cheap; the skin carries the detail. Use it for shoulder plates, bracers and crowns that need both structure and crinkle.
One shoulder dome, blank 24 cm across, started Saturday morning. The EVA route: two 5 mm sheets, cut and beveled as one compound curve, contact cement at the seam, heat-formed over a bowl โ the dome is shell-ready by Saturday night and sealed Sunday morning before color (the seal-first rule above). The Worbla route: a foam core shaped first, one thermoplastic sheet warmed to 90โ110 ยฐC and draped over it โ the dome closes Sunday morning because the shell forms and skins in one pass, and it primes straight away with no seal coat. Two real trade-offs at one bench: EVA wins the materials bill, Worbla wins the clock on fiddly curves. Either way the dome is a single piece on the planner's board, and its materials ride the app's rows marked Need โ Ordered โ Owned โ Used โ mid-weekend the board shows what's still on order, the app's state ladder for every line.
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Worbla bubbles | Heat parked in one spot | Keep the gun moving; re-warm the patch and press flat under a board |
| Fingerprints baked into the surface | Shaped bare-handed while hot | Sculpt with a tool or gloved hand; re-warm the skin to re-smooth |
| The honeycomb shows through the paint | Plain Worbla's weave printing through thin coats | Heavy prime the show faces, or start from the smooth variant |
| EVA seam pops at a flex point | Cement starved, nothing behind the joint | Re-glue the full face; back the seam with fabric or a thin foam strip (foam guide's fixes) |
| Walls went floppy after a hot car ride | Worbla re-softens near its working heat | Store builds cool; re-heat and re-set the warped spot, it's recoverable |
| Problem | EVA fix | Worbla fix |
|---|---|---|
| Paint soaks in | Plasti Dip, 2โ3 coats | Prime straight away; gesso the dips |
| Seams show | Beveled seams + heat-burnish, then caulk the hairline | Re-warm and press the seam shut, it welds |
| Wants a shine | Spray sealer after metallics, again after weathering | Heater-stretch the surface flat, then gloss varnish |